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The Wikipedia version of Muskie’s.  Have anything to add?  This is a user generated content.  If you have something to share, feel free to edit

ESOX-Definition
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Esox

Muskellunge
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Muskellunge

By Scott R

There is so much junk in the buck tail musky industry, one wonders who buys it all. So what are the problems with musky bucktails. Oh, there are many. Here’s what you need to watch out for.
If it feels as light as a feather, let it sit on the hook in the store and rot- do not buy it. You will not be able to cast a light bucktail anywhere, and you will be cursing all day because you were ripped off. If the bucktail has a hook that looks too small, don’t touch it, you need a big hook- 5/0, 6/0. Stay far away from the tiny hooks. Also stay away from a single hook bucktails, you won’t hook a thing, except yourself.

Examine what is blocking the hook points. If a bucktail has stiff deer hair covering the hooks, and you can’t even see the hooks, consider a different choice. Stiff piles of bucktail with too much glue will not allow you to get a solid hook set on a beast musky.

Make sure the wire is stiff enough to withstand some serious abuse. You want .052 and .062 wire. Once you go lower, you can pretty much count on a bent bucktail after a few decent fish. Stay away from the light wire, it will eat your money. Also, make sure that the clevis is strong, something that looks as thick as horse hair will not last. And finally,make sure you have razor sharp hooks. Most of the time you will not find a bucktail that meets these criteria in a store.

You need to turn to the internet to find affordable and durable musky bucktails [http://www.squidoo.com/muskyfishing]

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Scott_R
http://EzineArticles.com/?Musky-Bucktails–Stop-Paying-Money-For-Junk&id=1268208

By Steve Lake

If you are going after Walleye the best places are from the Midwest Northward and into Canada. Walleye prefer sand and gravel bottoms and lakes with perch which they readily eat. I fish a lot of lakes that have a healthy Walleye population but no perch. Walleye are finding themselves in lakes further south. Lakes with Walleye will also have a population of other gamefish such as Northern, Smallmouth, Largemouth, Crappie, Musky and sunfish.

Finding Walleye’s has a lot to do with the Oxygen in the lake. Lot’s of fertile lakes don’t have a good oxygen level at the lower depths especially below the thermocline. This will force Walleye into shallow water 10 ft. or shallower.

Walleye spawn in water along shoreline’s where there is good water movement and gravel on the bottom. Spawning begins when water gets to around 48 degrees. From this time until about 10 days after spawning females don’t bite. Smaller males will bite during spawning. After spawning Walleye

You usually find Walleye’s in 30 ft. of water or less. In the deeper lakes you will find walleye along shorelines and hanging around shallow mid lake humps. I caught a 10LB Walleye right up on a rock cliff in Canada that went down into the water. I bounced a jointed Rapala off the wall. My uncle and cousin caught bigger the same way.

Lot’s of Walleye’s are caught at night. Cloudy breezy days with a little chop ( The Walleye Chop ) are good because this deflects the sun’s rays. On calm sunny days Walleye spend their time in shade by weeds or near the bottom in deeper water.

Fishing in the evening with a slip bobber and leech is a great way to catch Walleye. Anchor at the edge of a drop off and cast up into 4 to 8 feet of water. Trolling with minnow lures and shad raps is good also. there is usually a good bite for 3 or 4 hours after dark.

walleyes will hang at about 12 to 18 feet along the edge of the dropoff’s during the day. Slow trolling or back trolling with a 3 way rig with a leech or minnow or casting with a jig and minnow are good methods of catching them. During summer nights, troll in eight to ten feet of water along the tops of the midlake flats, next to the drop-off. Back trolling with a jig and minnow is very effective.

Mid summer is not as good of time to fish for Walleye but they can be caught. You may think that it is because it is so hot out but it is because the perch and bait fish are reaching the proper size (3 inches and bigger) to look really food to walleye and they gorge themselves on these fish. I am a firm believer in the bigger the minnow the bigger the fish caught!

Walleye can be caught through the ice around points and mid lake flats in 10 to 12 ft of water in early ice season. Jan. and later find them in 18 to 30 ft. depths.

This article would not be complete without saying a little something of how good Walleye are to eat! They are great!

To learn more about Walleye and the rare or even extinct Blue Walleye check out Tacklemaster Sports for lot’s of fishing information and resources.

website: http://www.tacklemastersports.com

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Steve_Lake
http://EzineArticles.com/?Walleye-Fishing—How-to-Catch-Big-Ones&id=1013338

By Harald Hoel

Lure fishing for musky and pike can be an intricate matter. I have seen many fishermen do this without thinking at all of what they are doing. The most common mistake is they do it with not enough variation. They keep slamming the pike lures to the same spots over and over again and with the same retrieving speed. This is a very ineffective way to catch fish and will give you little or no fish to land.

These fishermen quickly gives up and complains about bad musky lures or no fish in the waters, while this often is completely wrong. What these guys should have done is fishing with much more variation and patience with the pike or musky.

Firstly, find a pike lure in your box that you know will trigger a bite in most cases and stick with it for a long time. Secondly, take a quick overview of the entire fishing spot and determine depths, rocks and other things to consider. Start throwing the lure just outside weed lines, logs or other object. Retrieve with moderate speed and with your rod tip pointing high to make sure the lure will go high in the water.

If a pike is there and is hungry enough it will grab the lure, if not it will maybe sniff on it or turn just before it take it. Either way, you will notice it visually or feel it. Now we know there is a pike on the spot, but we will not do the huge mistake and throw the lure right back because this mostly will scare the pike back permanently to its hiding place.

We have to leave it, let it go back and “digest” the whole situation. It was not hungry enough or missed the target, but it needs a rest. The pike need a few minutes to settle down. In this period it becomes more focused and the instincts are sharpened. If we now had slammed the lure back after a few seconds the pike would surely had been scared, skeptical or both and certainly not taken the lure.

What we will do next is throwing the lure to another place to check out if there is a fish there. Keep the lure high and make a “map” of the spot (depths etc.). If nothing happens when you have been everywhere, go back to the spot where the pike responded and throw the lure a bit farther away, retrieving a bit slower and with the rod tip lower too. Now the bait will pass by the pike with slightly different movement, deeper and with lower speed. The pike has had its rest and very often the pike is more interested this time or more focused and will take your lure properly.

Always start fishing high and go deeper when nothing happens. Retrieve with slow, moderate and fast speed and most important ; don`t fish on the same spot several again and again. When a cast is finished, throw the lure in a completely different spot next time. Showing the fish your bait many times in a short period just make them fed up with it and shows no interest.

Remember, the fish needs time to consider most of the time, even if it is a pike, salmon, perch or any other fish specie.

Just follow these simple and effective rules and I can guarantee success when many others will not notice anything in the same fishing area.

Harald Hoel, expert of pike fishing.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Harald_Hoel
http://EzineArticles.com/?Lure-Fishing-Tips-For-Pike&id=2557505

By Harald Hoel

A new fishing technique has taken the world by storm and taken pike fishing to new adventures with adapted tackle. We are talking about jerkbait fishing!

The bite comes as an explosion and spreads all the way to the spine. The rod is raised and the fish is hooked. The hand around the reel and the “dead” fishing line gives a very good feeling with the fish which rushes out. The fight is on and after 10 minutes and several rushes, a beautiful pike of 20 lbs lies in the boat.

The yellow dotted fish is released from the big plastic fish which it believed to be a suitable prey. After weighing the elegant female fish is put back into the water.

We are on a large lake in Norway in the beginning of August and are fishing on some shallow banks far out. Today we are fishing on the same spots were we earlier used to do trolling. But now we are concentrating the fishery on certain spots, and have equipped ourself with modern pike fishing tackle, jerkbaits as pike lures or musky lures.

The name comes from the movement you make with your rod tip, making small jerks which make the bait swerve sideways and become very much alike an injured fish. Its perfect for triggering the bite reflex with big predator fish.

Jerkbait fishing is mostly aimed towards pike and musky, but can also be concentrated towards other predator fish as perch and trout.

When you bring the bait in you hold your hand around the reel, and use both reel and rod tip to make the movement. Short fishing rod, “dead” fishing line and heavy baits, make you throw far and can fish on large areas.

The jerk reel is a little baitcast reel which are reinforced to withstand heavy pressure. Penn fishing reels have many good alternatives.

The fishing rod should also also be powerful to give decent hooking. It should have top action for best steering of the bait. Shimano fishing rods is recommendable to this fishery.

You should always have tight lines during retrieving. It can be wise to variate between fast and slow retrieving.

Stiff wire trace gives a resilient effect and provide better side movements of the bait. Out on the shallow banks it`s only 10 - 15 feet deep. We fish high in the water to make sure the bait is inside pike`s visual range. When the pike is in a biting mood it likely dive up several feet to grab a bite.

Usually drifting or anchored boat are used, but you can also do this pike fishing from land.

Harald Hoel, expert of pike fishing

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Harald_Hoel
http://EzineArticles.com/?Jerkbaiting-For-Pike-and-Musky&id=2560392

By Scott R

When fishing for sunfish, often times one will only catch small sunfish, and it gets a bit frustrating, especially if you want to keep some to cook. You many think to yourself, “Are there any larger sunfish in this place”. Well, maybe there aren’t. A lot of times, people fish for sunfish in smaller bodies of water that don’t have a good predator base, and as a result fish over populate and stunt each others growth.So how do you find out if the place you’re fishing has any larger sunfish? One of the best ways to prospect for bigger sunfish is to move away from live bait. More specifically, get away from worms and meal worms.

Smaller fish will nibble at your worms and meal worms all day long, and they will make you a hungry fisherman, after they eat all your bait and avoid your hook. So, move away from live bait and use smaller spoons, spinners, and spinner baits, as well as jigs with tiny grubs on them. The key here is that you are moving these lures and they are bigger than live bait. As a result of this, the smaller fish will not be able to fit their small mouths around the lure, and they probably won’t want to chase it, either. If you don’t start to pick up larger fish after several outings of these techniques, then you can start to assume that larger sunfish don’t exist.

But, you may need to change your fishing locations slightly to tap into larger schools of sunfish with the aforementioned techniques. Larger fish tend to like to locate themselves just of the flat, shallow areas where most sunfish colonies assemble. These bigger fish inhabit an area where deeper water makes them feel a bit safer from birds of prey, but they don’t go too deep, because then they have to deal with super sized bass, musky or pike. So, you want to fish the deeper water right next to shallow flats.

Using sunfish lures [http://www.squidoo.com/sunfishfishing] such as small spoons, spinners, and jigs in this deeper water will increase your chances of catching larger fish ten fold. Live bait fished in these deeper pockets can have similar results, however, make sure that you are fishing with just enough bait to catch the fish, but not enough to allow one to strip of the excess worm or meal worm. This is a delicate dance in fishing for any type of panfish, and is one of the main reasons why so many people move away from live bait in favor of plastics and lures. Spending most of your day tending to your live bait is not much fun at all.

Check out all of the sunfish lures [http://www.squidoo.com/sunfishfishing] suggested in this article and read about one of the best sunfish lures ever created.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Scott_R
http://EzineArticles.com/?Sunfish-Fishing—Where-And-How-To-Catch-The-Biggest-Ones&id=1142491

By Harald Hoel

Pike lures and musky lures are often associated with crankbait lures. Here is a brief review of the most popular crankbaits.

The Zalt Wobbler

The Zalt wobbler came on the market in the early 1990`s with an innovative design. This wobbler is from Sweden and has had great success in the market. The Zalt is a very lively wobbler which is very attractive when fishing for pike. The Zalt wobbler works at its best when using minimum 8 inches wire trace in front since its movement are dependent on the weight of the wire trace.

The wobbler can be bought in many colors and sizes and as with most wobblers, one can attach sinkers about 24- 35 inches in front of the wobbler, and then fish slowly in 33- 40 feet depths.

Bomber Lures

Since the 1930`s, Bomber brand lures have been leading the market in the USA but they have also peaked Nordic sport-fishermen’s interest. In Sweden, the sea-trout record was broken using a Bomber, and it is the favourite of several of the biggest trolling, salmon and trout fishermen in the Nordic.

Bomber is not only great for catching salmon and trout, but also for pike. Bomber brand lures can be bought in all thinkable variants and colors.

Abu`s HI-LO wobbler

The HI-LO is a classic wobbler from ABU. There are few wobblers which are more connected with pike fishing as the HI-LO wobbler. I can remember that when reading about pike fishing when I was younger, all books mentioned the HI-LO.

The best feature about this pike fishing lure is the adjustable spoon making it useable for different depths - even on top of the water. The variability of this wobbler makes it very useful. I have had the greatest success with the red and white HI-LO as well as one with bright colors of orange, yellow and green.

It could be these are best for me personally, so it is best to try different types to see which work best for you. The HI-LO is available in several colors and sizes and it is also possible to find them in a jointed type.

Swim Whizz

The Swim Whizz is a very good pike wobbler with which I have caught many big pike. This wobbler is relatively light versus its size and is therefore not well suited for throwing, but is well suited for pike trolling. With the Swim Whizz, there are two spots to attach the line which makes it easy to fish in different depths.

I have one in bright yellow which fish enjoy. These wobblers are made in the USA where it is the favourite of many American sport fishermen. This pike wobbler is relatively big, but is available in at least two sizes.

It is also available in a jointed type which can be very effective if the fish are a bit slow.

Terminator

The Terminator is a new wobbler from ABU and has a very natural holographic appearance. It has been very popular amongst trolling fishermen in Sweden, but the sinking model is also very good for long casts.

This wobbler is not designed specifically for pike fishing, but it works extremely well for them. As with the Zalt wobbler, the Terminator moves a bit calmer in the water than traditional wobblers, which in some cases can be beneficial.

This wobbler can also be found in different colors and sizes and you can choose between floating and sinking types.

Rapala Lures

In 1936 the Rapala wobbler was created when Lauri Rapala made his first hand made wobbler. Since then, Rapala has been the biggest manufacturer of wobblers on the market, and not without reason. There are several hundred different rapala lures each made for different types of fish.

Also, most people know Rapala’s Red Head as the biggest pike wobbler ever made. The only negative with Rapala is that most of their lures are so light that they are difficult to cast far, but they do make a few sinking and slow sinking types which are heavier and easier to cast.

Like the Zalt Wobbler, these can be turned into sinking lures if one uses fireline because the thickness helps one to cast longer and go deeper in the water.

This was a quick presentation of pike lures in this category. Northern pike lures or musky lures include many more types of fishing lures and you will find more information about those when searching my site.

Harald Hoel, expert of pike fishing

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Harald_Hoel
http://EzineArticles.com/?Musky-Lures-and-Pike-Lures—Crankbaits-Review&id=2522012